"Cheerfulness, it would appear, is a matter which depends fully as much on the state of things within, as on the state of things without and around us." Charlotte Brontë

Thursday, May 29, 2014

Day One in Paris

Paris is the best-connected city I've had the pleasure to step into. In the past, I was always a metro/RER girl. This time around, we decided to take advantage of the Vélib network: Paris' biking system. That might have been the single best decision we made in the city. I loved getting to know the city even better, and it made for some serious adventures; races against the 30-minute trip limit, run-ins with the cops, near-death experiences on Parisian roads, and getting lost in the vast city. High adventure, I tell ya.
After a quick trip to Monoprix, a supermarket, we packed our lunches (baguette sandwiches), and headed out for the day.
First stop: the Louvre
I had tried (and failed) to explain to Brandon just how massive the Louvre is. As much as I can appreciate the plethora of art pieces inside (35,000), I love the actual building just as much (which is nice, since admiring the outside is much cheaper).


What can I say? I'm a sucker for French architecture, and the adjoining Tuileries gardens are always magical!



Jardin des Tuileries
Fun at the Tuileries

 After relaxing and admiring the Louvre and Tuileries, we headed out to the Palais Royal. Brandon scratched his head over the purpose of this plaza, but I think it's a pretty cool place.

Atop one of the Palais Royal columns

Palais Royal
 When we headed to Notre Dame, hoping to go inside, I was blown away. I've been to Notre Dame dozens of times--during the peak of tourist season as well as during early November--and I had never ever seen it anywhere near as crowded as it was. Turns out we came on a national holiday (May 8--WWII victory day), plus they were holding the fête du pain--a celebration of the art of bread-making--in the courtyard in front of Notre Dame. It was hectic. And I hated it. We refused to stand in line, and instead took shelter from the rain under a bridge with a view to Notre Dame.


Brandon in his glorious Wal Mart poncho
Afterward, we grabbed two kebabs from the Latin Quarter. 
"Assiette" means plate in French. An unfortunate abbreviation.


 I hadn't had a kebab since my last trip to Paris (2010), but I realized that a few years is a good space between kebabs. One every four years is plenty.
Next stop: Luxembourg Gardens and the Palais du Sénat.

 This little fountain below is one of my absolute favorite places in Paris. The pictures don't even capture how green and beautiful it was.

Luxembourg Gardens




Last stop of the day: Eiffel Tower


The pretty rainbow we got to see behind the tower

 
If I look like a wet dog--which I do--I blame it on the rain, just like Milli Vanilli.
Regardless, day one was pure success!

Arriving in Paris--la Ville Lumière

After a layover in Copenhagen, we arrived in Paris late Wednesday night. We lugged our suitcases on the Orlybus to the metro at Denfert-Rochereau, on to the crazy Chatelet les Halles station, and then to Saint Paul. Even amidst the stress of squeezing ginormous suitcases through the metro ticket stalls, it felt surreal to be back in the city I regularly get homesick for. I felt anticipation but also a strange bout of nerves--I wanted Brandon to experience the Paris I love and to appreciate it. In my experience, people are usually hot or cold about Paris, rarely lukewarm. As an intern, I spent three solid months exploring the city on my own. After work ended at noon, I spent the rest of the day-- every day--visiting the nooks and crannies of the city. I loved it to start with, and it only grew on me. Sure, the metro smells like a mix of tobacco, urine, and a certain unidentifiable (thankfully) something; but the city it grants access to is chalk-full of beauty, history, and romance. As Hemingway said,
"If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young [wo]man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast."
Dang skippy, Hemingway. 

Thanks to airbnb.com, Brandon and I got to stay on the cheap in the 3rd district of the city--I took special care that we be well-located. Even though we were in the middle of the thriving French capital, we stayed with a Japanese host. Go figure.
Our host Azusa
That first night, despite the late hour, we decided to go on a stroll. Our stroll ended up being a few kilometers since I couldn't resist the pull of the city center. So we walked to Notre Dame and along the river where we saw fire dancers entertaining a group of youngens smoking and drinking the night away. As we walked down the steps to the riverwalk, I received a nice welcome surprise from Paris. And by nice I mean completely revolting. Something that felt like a wet Koosh ball hit my foot. If only it had been a Koosh. It was actually a rat. Rough start, guys. Rough start. But I brushed it off like a big girl (not really--I had periodic outbursts and shudders the rest of the night and for days to come). We braved the rodent and the party-hardy atmosphere to catch a glimpse of my favorite view of Notre Dame. I love love love the side view of Notre Dame from la Rive Gauche.  It was a magical way to start off our Europe adventure.
The Lock Bridge